What is the difference between Fusion’s Milk Paint and Fusion’s Mineral Paint
Let’s start with the fact they are simply to different types of paint.
Fusion Mineral Paint (FMP) is a 100% acrylic based paint. The acrylic base is the “built-in top coat”. What this means is that the paint in and of itself is enough to cover and protect your substrate (object you are painting). Once FMP cures it is a washable matte finish. You do not need to add a top coat to protect the painted surface. FMP comes ready to use right out of the pint. It has zero VOCs, which means there is no smell or harmful chemicals in the paint. FMP was created to have exceptional adhesion and durability on furniture and cabinetry. I can attest to the fact that it adheres exceptional well to furniture. I can say that it is easily cleaned and stands up to the test of my family’s constant use.
Fusion’s Milk Paint (MP) is a true milk paint that comes in powder form. Milk paint is named after the fact that one of the ingredients is casein. Casein is the protein found in milk. Milk paint is one of the oldest forms of paint. It has been used for thousands of years. Milk paint needs to be mixed with water prior to using. MP can be mixed thin or thick depending on the look you would like to achieve. MP is a porous paint and therefore it does need to be sealed to protect the painted surface from water. MP can be sealed with hemp oil, wax, Fusion’s Stain and Finishing Oil or a polyacrylic (such as Fusion’s Tough Coat). MP is ultra durable. Once MP adheres to a surface, it is not coming off!
Short version … FMP is an acrylic based paint that is premixed and does not need a top coat. MP is a porous paint that needs to be mixed with water and it needs to be sealed.
How do I start my painting project?
Clean it first!
One of the first things that needs to be done with any project is cleaning! You want to make sure you have gotten all the grease and grime off the table. Paint will not stick to grease. I like to use Fusion’s TSP cleaner. A small bottle goes a long way because it is a concentrate! This formula is environmentally friendly, there is no Phosphate in this formula. Phosphate is the part that needs to be washed off before you can prime or paint. The phosphate reacts to the BIN primer. Luckily when using Fusion’s formula you do not have to worry about the phosphate issues. I mix mine in a spray bottle. I cap full to 32 oz water. I spray the piece with the cleaner. I use one of the cleaning sponges that are yellow on one side and green scrubby on the other side. I scrub and then wipe off with the yellow side. I do not rinse the entire piece off, I just let it dry.
Prime it second … only if you need to prevent bleed through from wood tannins or odor
Next, you can spray or use a brush to apply BIN. BIN has a strong smell, make sure you have a well-ventilated area when applying your BIN. It is a shellac based primer so it will stick to just about anything and it will block stain and odors. I usually apply 2 coats. I have had older pieces of furniture (especially Cherry) that have required 3-4 coats of BIN to block those pesky tannins. Tannins turn your paint pink or brown. After the BIN has dried, usually about 30 – 45 minutes, I will take a 220 grit sanding pad and sand the BIN smooth. This leaves a smooth surface for you to paint. I like a smooth feel to a final painted furniture piece.
Time to paint with Fusion Mineral Paint (FMP)
Once the primed surface is dry, you can now paint. I use a Critter spray gun and Fusion Mineral Paint (FMP). I do not have to thin the FMP. I just pour it right in and spray. When spraying FMP, it goes on very easily and levels itself out well. You will get a nice smooth surface with the FMP.
No paint sprayer, no problem! You will achieve great results with a paintbrush!. I recommend purchasing a good quality brush. I love my Staalmeester flat brush. This is my go-to brush! If you are painting a table top, I recommend using a microfiber roller and frame. A roller will give you the smoothest finish on a large flat surface. Careful not to use a foam roller. The foam roller holds too much air and will give you a lot more stippling than the microfiber roller. Either way you choose to apply the FMP, Fusion has a great self leveling quality which gives you less brush strokes. TIP to reduce brush strokes, do not apply the paint too thick and do not over work your paint. I have had people new to painting furniture use FMP. One lady had a hand tremor and was worried about painting. She came back and was so happy with how easy FMP is to use. She was able to achieve a beautiful, smooth finish. It is an easy DIY paint. I like to have a smooth feel to my painted furniture. I use a 220 grit sanding pad and gently buff the final coat of paint to get a nice smooth finish. I buff (sand lightly) and wipe back with a damp cloth. You will feel the surface getting smooth as you sand and wipe back. When painting with FMP, you will need 2 or 3 coats depending on what color you are using. For example, going from black to white, you will definitely need 3 coats. The paint needs to be dry to the touch before you apply another coat. FMP usually takes about 45 minutes in between coats to dry. FMP takes 21-30 days to “cure”. Cure means all the water has evaporated from the paint. Once the paint is cured, the surface can be cleaned and the painted surface is super durable. In the meantime, you can use your furniture piece just be gentle and only wipe back with a damp cloth.
Time to paint with Fusion’s Milk Paint (MP)
It is in the prep work and the mixing that you can achieve different finishes with MP. Typically you mix equal parts water to powder. It is as easy as mixing hot chocolate or your protein shake. Simply mix and go. MP can be sprayed or hand painted. MP is easy because it is thin and does not leave any brush strokes. You can be fairly haphazard when painting with MP, use just about any brush and you will still get a brush free finish. MP is also super easy to blend and create an ombre finish. Another quality of MP is the fact that it will have a mind of its own and authentically chip. This creates a beautiful old world look. Several things come into play to get MP to chip. If you want a chippy look, do not clean or sand your piece. Simply mix the milk paint and paint. Yet, you are never guaranteed the paint will chip. I have painted many pieces I thought would chip because I did no prep work. I got only 1 or 2 spots of chipping. I have learned that If you want a lot of the gorgeous chippy look, you need to force the paint to chip. Use a wax or oil, prior to painting, on the areas you want to chip. If you want that smooth sleek look, and you are painting a surface that has a sheen. Clean, scuff sand, prime (if worried about tannins), add a bonding agent to the MP and the MP will not chip. MP will not chip off when painting any type of porous substrate. Bare wood is a porous substrate. MP will soak into the bare wood and almost becomes one with the wood. To get the paint off this surface, you will need a sander. MP is ultra-durable! Once the MP adheres to a surface, it is not coming off. Milk paint takes about 20-30 min to dry and cure. Usually the first coat of MP looks a little scary. It looks uneven, the magic comes with the second coat. The final coat will look a bit chalky once it is dry. MP is a porous paint. As a porous paint, once the paint has dried, the paint is cured! As it is a porous paint, MP needs to be sealed. MP does require a top coat. The top coat can be hemp oil, wax, Fusion’s Stain and Finishing oil or a polyacrylic ( Fusion’s Tough Coat). I tend to quickly run a 220 grit sanding pad over the surface prior to applying the top coat. MP is thin and creates a super smooth finish.
Which paint do I choose?
FMP and MP are two different types of paint. The paint that is right for your project depends on you and the finish you want to achieve on your piece
Print this list!
|FUSION MILK PAINT||FUSION MINERAL PAINT|
|Powder mix water (equal parts)||Shake and paint|
|Seal with a top coat of choice||Top coat built in – no need to apply top coat|
|Zero VOCs||Zero VOCs|
|Washable finish once top coat applied and sheen depends on the top coat applied||Washable Matte Finish|
|Prep work – depends of finish you want
No prep work if you want some chipping
|Prep work – Clean and scuff sand|
|Re-coat time 15-30 mins||Re-coat time 1-2 hrs|
|Cure time 15-30 mins||Cure time 21 -30 days depending on weather|
|Ease of application – easy!
Paint is thin, you can use any brush & be somewhat haphazard and get a brush stroke FREE finish
|Ease of application – easy!
Paint has a self leveling quality. Use of a good synthetic brush, thin coat and don’t overwork the paint & get a virtually brush free finish
|Use bonding agent (ultra grip) 1:1 ratio to ensure no chipping on a surface with a sheen||Ultra grip only required on melamine or super shinny surfaces that are difficult to paint|
|Blending for ombre or gradient effect is super easy||Blending for ombre or gradient effect requires a misting bottle to keep the paint wet|
|Distressing – once dry, lightly sand to achieve authentic, natural-looking distressing||Distressing – let final coat dry for 30 mins. Use sanding pad to lightly distress. You can wait longer but the longer you let it dry the harder it will be to sand & achieve that lightly|
|Crackle finish – mix MP thicker and use a hairdryer to quickly dry it and cracks appear||Crackle finish – use crackle medium, wait 12 hrs paint over crackle|